Cycling tips and a useful navigation hint.

Today I road like a teenager on whizz. The reason? Eating. It makes all the difference. Not many people know that.

Actually, a bit more to it, the temperature has dropped, about 5 degrees, and the wind has disappeared completely. So, a pleasant cycle, largely along the Canal du Rhône au Rhin plus a few dedicated cycle paths through forests. Got lost around Mulhouse when diverted off the towpath, but unfortunately not back on again. The only snagette, and I don't know why this happens to me every sodding time I come to Germany, an enormous thunderstorm, so,  soaked to the skin again, but not the end of the world as it was still warm.

The navigation tip I'm going to give you is a useful one: just because you have found the right road, it's not necessarily going in the right direction. Fortunately, having passed my navigation exam as part of ppl training, it only took me 20 mins to realise that if the sun was on my left, there was a good chance I was not heading East.

A good thing: the pleasant and inexpensive hotel (that's why we're in Germany and not Switzerland) opened specially for us. A bad thing: but not the restaurant, and it's raining, and there's nowhere else to go. So, no food AGAIN.

Food

It's been one of those days when food has proved utterly elusive.
Started well with a lovely breakfast.
I was going to picnic on cheese, fruit and nuts, and maybe a little beer.  Called in at the grocer... Non ! J'ai faim, dit-il. Me too, pal. And so it went on, really. Got to the B and B in Belfort - stunning, with a pool. And a garrulous owner who had told me where I could eat on  arrival. However, by the time he'd finished showing me around, introduced me to his wife, blah, blah.. I asked him again where it was and he looked at his watch.. Alas, too late.
If only teleportation worked. I am starving.
Evening, all.

Bit of a cock up

First, a poem, in French, I hope you like it.

Euh! La Loire !
J'en ai marre.

I am expecting a call from l'académie française any moment.

It's probably sacrilege, but I mean, the Loire.. What's the point? It's a shallow fast - flowing river. I challenge anyone to say from a  photo where any bit of it is.  It's all the bloody same. And another thing, what sort of moron thinks that cobbles are a suitable material for a cycle path? Anyway, I had a damascene moment this morning, a cobble too far, and I thought, the sodding thing doesn't even go in the right direction. So, armed only with 3 gps's and a map, I went off piste.

Yes, the horrendous headwind was still there, but somehow, the fact I was actually heading east seemed cheering. Additionally, there were things to look at, horses, trees, factory farms-lots of those.

It's always the detail that bites me. Normally in France you see Chambres d'hôtes everywhere. I didn't see one in hours. Google is your friend, but it seems a lot of feckless b and b owners couldn't be bothered to let Google know they were having their hols.

Eventually, after 120 km I found an eco castle - yes, really - and the kindly owner took pity, even though he was officially closed.

Thank you people who have commented. It  can be lonely and it's really good to know that someone is reading this bilge. Darren, yes, indeed a polecat, I checked in Wikipedia. Philip, I don't think Jargeau is nearly stylish enough for you. Whoever L is, the answer is yes, but discretion is important.

Night, all, whatever will tomorrow bring?

You couldn't make it up!

Going for a quick stroll after an indifferent breakfast to remind my legs they can do other stuff than pedal, I saw a school girl get out of a Porsche Panamera taxi. Blimey !

Fine dining

If you're ever in Jargeau, unlikely, I know, I can thoroughly recommend Le Pizza Martroy. Wonderful pasta, une (ou plusieurs) bières artisanales and the biggest, most delicious profiteroles I've ever had. All for not much money.

Doubtless I shall no fall asleep to Bill Bryson 'Made in America' as I did last night.

Oh, I keep forgetting the nature table. So far spotted a hare, a polecat and the biggest, scariest beetle I've ever seen. I encouraged it to start a new life outside.

That's all folks.

Fine dining

If you're ever in Jargeau, unlikely, I know, I can thoroughly recommend Le Pizza Martroy. Wonderful pasta, une (ou plusieurs) bières artisanales and the biggest, most delicious profiteroles I've ever had. All for not much money.

Doubtless I shall no fall asleep to Bill Bryson 'Made in America' as I did last night.

Oh, I keep forgetting the nature table. So far spotted a hare, a polecat and the biggest, scariest beetle I've ever seen. I encouraged it to start a new life outside.

That's all folks.

Early bath

Well, almost. The bloody, bloody wind. It not only saps your strength, but it's very irritating, VERY IRRITATING. I had nearly given up by 1400 and was looking for a b and b that had been recommended, but I couldn't find it, so I pushed on to Jargeau and am staying in a hotel. It redefines the word 'cheap'. I haven't stayed anywhere like this since the sixties, but it's clean-ish and friendly. Plus, I can actually eat tonight.

I suppose when humans are glued together, all the bits are expected to last roughly the same time, so it seems only right that, as my hands are packing up, my knees should be failing too.

A bientôt

Wind

20 knots gusting to 30...on the nose! I hadn't expected this! Oh, lordy!

FFS

Monday 8th June
Swim before breakfast, delicious but worrying as my hand is worse - could not close my fingers while swimming. This could curtail things. Maybe I can see a doctor in Munich.

The ride so far has been dull. Going through Tours was stressful and took ages, and for the last hour, I've had a busy main road on one side and impenetrable trees on the other. Fortunately, amusement was provided by a young blade on a moped attempting (but failing) wheelies. My how we laughed.

Sitting in the sun in a delightful café at Montlouis sur Loire having a pleasing but expensive latte.

Later. All in all, it's been a pretty crap day. I have had the wind against me since leaving Paimpol, but today it's really been blowing a hooley. At one point, going down a 5% incline, I stopped pedalling - and stopped moving. Additionally, for reasons that baffle, the cycle path would veer away from the river, climb a steep 500 feet and head off across the wind-swept plain for 10km or so.  Think Norfolk, but nicely elevated to catch whatever wind was going. At one point, some jobsworth git tried to tell me the road was closed, although it clearly wasn't. 'Oh, really?' I sneered (in French, of course) and cycled on.

To finish, the Chambre d'hôtes is in the middle of nowhere and I have only a stale packet of peanuts. All in all.. J'en ai marre. I do admit the last problem is of my own making.

Night night

Chambres d'hôtes

It baffles me why anyone goes to hotels - well, I suppose because they're rich. Second chambre d'hôtes that has provided a meal, with vino, for 12 euros. Not just fodder, but a bloody good scoff. On top of that, very pleasant company and the opportunity to improve one's French. Oh, and a pool. And Madame lent me a maillot. So, if you're ever at Berthenay, near Tours, Les Près Baynard is not to be missed.

Night all.

A problem with the space time continuum

I spent spent bloody ages writing this post then went to find some photos and it all disappeared. Bloody computers.

I was ranting about the fact that, although I have done 580 km, I still only seem to be 230 miles from Roscoff. But I can't be arsed to go into all that again. I am  at a b&b just outside Tours, it's hot and there is a very nice pool. I am eating here en famille tonight.

I'll post the photos that would not post yesterday as the Internet seems a bit better here. Update : still won't poat photos. Blogger is crap.

Gary asked why I'm doing this. I honestly haven't a clue. Because I can? It is mostly enjoyable and it gives you a lot of time to think about stuff, which I enjoy. Ultimately, everything is pointless, so I suppose this is  no more so than most of  human endeavour.

Duke of Edinburgh

A strange and feverish night.  I dreamed I went flying with the Duke of Edinburgh. Seemed a nice old chap, though I admit a dream is hardly a reliable character witness.

Sunny, cooler.  Today I actually head properly east along the Loire. I am slightly concerned as I have numbness in my left hand, probably a trapped ulnar nerve. I can ride one-handed for a bit, but probably not to Munich.

Thanks for comment, Geoffrey, good to hear from people. I prefer to look on the loss of the jacket as a sign it's not going to rain any more.

A tout à l'heure.

The B and B

I have discovered I can get an iffy broadband signal sitting on the loo.
Having a really relaxing day, listening to Clare in the community.
I decided to save some money by buying fruit and nuts and a bottle of local cider and not eating out. Unfortunately, I have eaten everything and am still hungry. Picture of chambre d'hôtes attached.

Apologies

This might not be the usual high standard of prose that you have come to expect. You see, I've got a bit of a problem. Despite burning around 4000 calories a day over and above what you need to stay alive, I have no appetite whatsoever. Fortunately, my enjoyment of alcohol remains unaffected, anyway, you can guess the rest...

No Internet for two days - actually very liberating. My friend John (richest man in the world™)  said you can get Internet access absolutely everywhere these days, but so far, I've managed approximately nowhere, so yet again I'm using my very expensive dongly thing.

I think we last met in rainy Brittany. On the second day's cycling, I met my friend Alain Loinsard. He is, basically, bonkers. A lean, fit cycling machine. He thinks the correct speed to cycle is 30 kph. Well, I don't. He nearly killed me, and it was only through showing great strength of character, ie going very slowly, that I survived at all. Lovely chap with a gorgeous house near St Malo, and a very good attitude to the state of the planet. His only fault, and it's a big one, he doesn't drink.

However, the next day, i finally made it to Fougeré (look it up) and spent a lovely evening with Joyce who runs a veggie B and B, is a stunning cook, and who I knew straight away was my sort of person when she offered me a beer on arrival. A lovely evening, I wanted to stay an extra night, but she was booked, and I'm not surprised.

Today, I staggered onwards in sultry conditions and made it to Saumur. Roy/Philip, remember Saumur? Anyway, I popped into the very helpful tourist information and they found me a top-hole b & b in Montreuil-Bellay, where I have effectively a suite for not much money.

Tomorrow, day off. I'm slightly concerned because I'm losing feeling in my left hand, so hoping a rest will sort that out, anyway, I'm old and knackered.

A pleasant evening at a cheap-ish restaurant playing 'spot the dick-head'. In the past, you could almost guarantee they would be English, but the French are now catching up. I suppose that's globalisation for you.

Oh, lost my jacket today, it fell off the carrier. A very nice lady stopped me and I went back, only to see an arse pick it up. I shouted at him, but he gave me the international sign for peace, at least, I think that's what it was, and drove off. I did get his number, but thought 'do I really want to spend the rest of the day in a police station' so left it at that. I didn't really like it anyway, it clashed. I  did put a curse on him, though, so that's him buggered.

Anyway, that's the news from Lake Woebegone, Philip, thank you for commenting and I wish you were here.

Let's call it days 0 and 1

I wrote a huge amount and the network died. I'm too knackered to write it again. Let's just say it rained. A lot. And I went too far.

Bit later: had a good stodge-out so feeling better.  The local cider is pretty goof, too.

The crossing yesterday was appalling, I think the worst I've known. Couldn't sleep because I was almost thrown out of bed every couple of minutes, puke everywhere. Not me, fortunately.

Today was disappointing, the scenery was lovely, but the constant rain and high wind spoilt everything.

It should have been 109 km, but Mio's little vagaries turned it into over 120, too far for this geriatric.

B&B - L'abri des îles, in Paimpol, is excellent and Nathalie charming and helpful. Paimpol is pleasant, though understandably touristy.

Apparently tomorrow will be better.

Night, all.

Inauspicious beginning

The weather here in Cornwall is atrocious, windy and chucking it down. Not a lot different in Brittany . Ah, well, it's character building.

The boat leaves Plymouth at 2200 and gets in at 0800 tomorrow, perhaps things will have improved. My first stage is largely around the north coast to Paimpol. See you later.

Reassurance

Now that departure is just a few days away, I am full of self-doubt. By amazing chance, a friend of mine, Tony Powell, another touring cyclist, came to visit us today. He told me that he had never set off on a trip without some doubts and worries...so...what can possibly go wrong?

Thanks, Tony.

PS - I've just done a SORN for my car, so I can't stay in the UK anyway!!!

Warm Showers

An unfortunate name, if you have a mind like mine.  Warm Showers (www.warmshowers.org) is a site aimed at cyclists offering and seeking accommodation,no money involved. Tonight, we had our first guests, a delightful young couple travelling up from Penzance.

It's good to give something back.

Cold, well, cool feet

Now that we are only just over two weeks from the 1st of June, some of that gung-ho attitude is beginning to evaporate. Maybe, just maybe, something will go wrong. My planning, as in everything I do, has been minimal. I've booked a couple of B&Bs and a Warm Showers, other than that, it's all up to the gods.

I think the fact that it has been chucking it down pretty solidly, one way or another, for the last couple of weeks has reminded me that it might not be blue skies all the way, and I hate getting wet. On top of the fear of bad weather, my front mudguard, which never fitted well in the first place, has now split because it was under too much tension - because it didn't fit properly. For the first and, hopefully, only time, a pox on you, Evans for suggesting it in the first place. The official mudguard set, introduced since I bought the bike, is an eye-watering £140. Yeah, right...

Result!

How's that for customer service? Only two weeks after requesting support from Mio, they have got back to me. Fortunately, I fixed the problem myself.

The Mio Cyclo is a nice GPS and its Surprise Me feature has taken me on some rides around here that have, well, surprised me, but the customer service is not their strong point. Shame really.

But the big result is that I have got someone to take me + bike to the dock at Plymouth when I set out. I don't mind cycling from Roscoff to Munich, but the idea of cycling along the A38 to Plymouth is not one that pleases.