Thursday, 9 June 2016

Posted twice

God knows why.

Urgences

A troublesome day. Starts off cold, which is great for cycling, but gets hotter and hotter as the day goes on.

I decided this year that 100km per day is too much, so decided on 80km as the new goal. Goals are meant to be broken. Today I did 115,and I van tell you, it really is too much.

The worst bit was along a 'cycle path' and I use the expression loosely. I should have given up at the fallen tree, but being a bloke, there can be no turning back. When I eventually rejoined the tarmac, I spent half an hour scraping the mud off the bike, and me.

While I was cycling, I suddenly, and I do mean suddenly, noticed that my tongue was swelling up. I initially thought it was maybe a thirst problem, but it wasn't. By the time I got to the hotel, I could only speak with a lithp, charming in Spanish, but odd-sounding in French. After unpacking and scraping the smell off, I hastened to the pharmacy. He said I should go to les urgences as it could be serious, but detecting reticence on my part, he sold me the world's most expensive mouth wash. Will I make it through the night? Only time will tell.

For some reason, my phone won't connect to the Internet, so I can't upload today's pictures, but here are some I made earlier.

Charming roof ornaments spotted whilst scoffing a bun.
says it all, really.
Trusty steed on bridge over aforementioned Somme.

Graham, thank you for the comment. Yes, carriage duly spotted. What an utter disaster that was, wasn't it? WW1 should never have started, but what a bollocks the Armistice was. French revenge has a lot to answer for.

Anyway, that’s all, folks. Amitiés

Wednesday, 8 June 2016

Euphoria evaporates

Ignore what I said about how lovely the Nord is. Well, it was certainly nice from the Belgian border to St Quentin, but today has been largely the north that I remember from school holidays before the autoroutes were opened. Lots of rolling countryside, big fields with boring crops of wheat or lettuce. One noticeable change is how few shops and bars there are en route. I have seen one of each in 80km.

Staying at an Airbnb this evening and the bloke won't be there until 1730 so I'm sitting beside the Aisne just outside Compiègne, slowly falling asleep. Were I to be restricted to two adjectives to describe last night's hotel, I would go for 'compact' and 'noisy'. Why do people need to start - and rev - their engines then have a long conversation before going home? When I'm in charge of everything, it will be law that people's cars blow up if they hoot the horn after 9pm.

Sorry, no free Wi-Fi tonight, so no pictures, as I'm a cheapskate.
Mediocre meal in Compiègne, but nice watching the world go by.

Tired and sleepy, so... evening all

Tuesday, 7 June 2016

Chez les ch'tis

I never really saw the point of the North of France. I saw it as an irritating but necessary stepping stone to where you really wanted to be, ie the South of France. How wrong I was.

First of all, apologies for the radio silence. Rest assured that I spent my time wisely, sampling Marie's wonderful cooking and Stan's wine cellar. Amazingly, no real problems arose through over-indulgence, though I did fall down the stairs, but that was this morning, therefore not drink related. We had some fun, but either they were going to have to adopt me, or I had to move on. So I did.

Marie looking thoughtful over pre-lunch drinks


This evening I'm at St Quentin, one of the places we normally flash past on the way to somewhere else. Don't. It's nice. Pleasant square with a Cloth Hall and nice bars and restaurants around. As always in France, and contrary to popular opinion, the people are pleasant, too. You just have to make a bit of an effort.

It's been a tough day. Very hot and humid, and I ran out of water, which is stupid and unforgivable. Fortunately, a shop appeared as if by magic at the moment of maximum despair.

The Nord département is lovely, rolling landscape, pretty and quiet, as is the adjoining bit of Belgium. I had a couple of long cycle tracks along former railways and also went along the Oise for a bit you can't knock it.




I'm going to do a party political broadcast now on behalf of the Remain cause. I might alienate some of you, if so, I'm sorry. I love the EU. It's got it's problems, that's for sure, but it's welded together disparate people into a Union of which we should be proud. Wandering around the last week, it's all so easy. Compare it to how things used to be with border crossings and bags full of different currencies. I love it! It's a force to be reckoned with and I hope it remains. Let's face it, it's not EU migrants who are the problem.

Anyway, you might disagree, and I'm sorry if you do. I'm not going to argue, I'm on holiday.

On the Nature Table
I'm sorry, I'm giving up. There is no nature. Another cuckoo, but we've done those. Pleased to see many more cows in the fields in France, compared to cows in jails in Holland. What price cheap food, eh?

Evening all.

Sunday, 5 June 2016

Gor blimey

This won't be my finest piece of work, I'm afraid. No pictures, no narrative, no description. Why post at all, I hear you ask. Simple. Drink, Internet access and enforced leisure have coincided, and we all know what a heady mixture that is..

Met Stan in Huy after a depressingly tough day's cycling. I can't be bothered to go into the deterioration in the relationship between my GPS and me, but trust me, I'm the innocent party here.

Anyway, the central theme since has had a thread, no, a river of drink running through it, plus excellent food. I'm seeking help here... What do I do next, stay here forever, or say farewell to fun and hit the road again? In the meantime, mine's a large one.

Love you all, no, honestly... I really love you

In Bourlers, Belgium, for the carpers who have complained of lack of detail.

Thursday, 2 June 2016

The Maas - again

You might have heard there have been some storm-ettes sur le continent. I can vouch this to be the case. I have seldom seen it rain so hard and the noise was incredible. It went on all night and eventually stopped about 930. So that's when I left. It's been unpleasantly humid all day, but hasn't actually rained. Hélas, that is not the case for tomorrow. I have to confess I am getting a wee bit hacked off with it.

I use a dedicated cycling GPS. It can best be described as quirky. It took me on the most vile route along a road infested with heavy vehicles. I put up with its nonsense for about 20km before intervening. 'surely' I asked, 'there must be a better option than this?' And I can assure you, I asked in a most querulous tone. 'Well,' it said, 'we could go on the cycle path along the Maas if you would prefer.' So we did. Don't get me wrong, we're not talking upper reaches of the Thames or a Hampshire chalk stream, but it was a bloody site better than Juggernaut Heaven. Unlike yesterday, this was a proper path, so perfectly ok for a road bike. Not a lot of choice of places to eat, but I did find a chip shop run by Indonesians, and had frites with a bami goreng. Not bad at all.

Crossed back and forth between Holland and Belgium (or Holland and Barrett as my predictive keyboard prefers) and Holland certainly seems the more prosperous of the two. On the basis you don't miss it till you lose it, Holland is a dream for cycling, cars just give way, you hardly need to look. Dedicated cycle paths everywhere. Not so in Belgium, I'm afraid. Still miles better than the UK, though.

The Maas is a working river. Although it's not pretty, it's interesting to see all the stuff that's moved by river, and it makes one thankful it's not going by road. An option we just don't have, unfortunately.

My B&B is conveniently situated at the top of a very steep hill in a village with a café that only opens on Fridays. Luckily I have some emergency rations thanks to Pat, and a bottle of Chimay I didn't drink yesterday. Oh, it's in Richelle, Belgium, not far from Liège. I keep forgetting to mention things like this, but because I know, it doesn't necessarily mean you do.

On the nature table
Well, we could do bullfrogs again, but we've already had them. I did pass an enclosure outside a factory with about a dozen roe deer in it, all looking miserable. How could anyone have thought that was a good idea.

If I had to describe today, I would go for 'harmless'.

I've just been talking to my friend Stan who lives near Chimay. I'm meeting him tomorrow and putting the bike in his car and staying with him a Marie for a few days. The forecast is not great so this seems sensible. They don't even have a phone, so you shall have to wait for a while to hear what happens next. One thing I can guarantee, it will involve drink. In copious amounts.

Some snaps:

bizarrely, these were in the forecourt of a garage.

don't see many of these any more.

another day, another country. It still has a certain frisson for me.

outskirts of Maastricht, a most attractive town.

rather good graffiti, about speed cameras, I think.

Evening all.